Ogoh-ogoh: Bali's Nyepi Eve statues

Ogoh-ogoh are giant sculptures paraded through Bali villages on the eve of Nyepi. They are part of the Pangrupukan rites, and the figures represent negative traits that are burned afterward ^[1]. For a visitor, the parade is a loud, colourful evening before the silence of Nyepi.

What do they represent?

The leading subject is the bhuta kala, a supernatural being from the lower realm ^[2]. Modern designs also include mythological animals, wayang characters and sometimes gods ^[2]. Burning the figure afterward symbolises letting go of those negative traits ^[1].

How are they made, and by whom?

Traditional frames are bamboo or rattan covered in paper. Styrofoam has been banned in Bali since 2015 because its smoke is hazardous ^[3]. Banjar communities build them, led by the youth division, and construction can take from a few weeks to months ^[5].

The tradition is relatively new, with development estimated in the 1980s ^[6].

How does the parade work?

The parade takes place at dusk. Bearers shake the figures so they appear to dance, which gives ogoh-ogoh its name ^[4]. Gamelan music, cheering and firecrackers fill the streets.

Where do visitors watch?

Parades are staged in Denpasar’s Puputan Square, in Ubud, in Kuta and Legian and in Sanur, as well as in village banjars. The best spots in Denpasar and Ubud fill up quickly, so arrive before sunset ^[7]. Ubud offers a more intimate setting than the big town crowds.

Do not cross in front of a figure while it is carried ^[7]. Our guide on photographing people, ceremonies and offerings covers manners with a camera.

How do Malaysians plan around it?

After the parade, the island turns silent. Plan your hotel, food and travel days with the closure in mind, using our guide on what closes during Nyepi. For the island itself, begin with the Bali destination guide.